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• 

  Bad Marketing: Painter’s Door Stand

  Posted: March 31st, 2010, 9:34am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  If you saw a picture of this tool, would you be able to guess what it was? Even knowing that Hyde called it a painter’s door stand, I couldn’t figure out how it was used until I read the description on Amazon.  You attach the $4 door stand to the hinge mortises of two doors and it holds both doors upright at what looks to be a right angle to each other so you can finish all sides of the two doors.

  There are a couple of caveats, the door hinges have to be at the same height and you can’t apply finish to the bottom. Presumably you attach the door stand to the center or top hinge mortise, but if you’re a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy, you might want to pick up two to make the standing doors more stable: one for the top of the door and one for the bottom.

  What I still can’t figure out is: Why on their website and online store does Hyde only show a picture of the tool out of context in the wrong orientation with no description of its use? You’d think anybody that had spent even two days in marketing would have figured out that’s no way to sell a product.

  Painter’s Door Stand [Hyde]
  Painter’s Door Stand [Hyde Store]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Gorillas Vs. Squids

  Posted: March 30th, 2010, 11:42am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Apparently, at some point when we weren’t looking, a Gorillapod snuck into the flashlight camp, and now we have the Gorillatorch. It looks like a Stanley™ SquidBrite, but uses three AA batteries instead of the 3.6V, 1.3Ah NiMH rechargeable battery in the SquidBrite. The SquidBrite has 20 LEDs, while the Gorillatorch has a single 65-lumen Cree LED. Both flashlights have adjustable light output (the Gorillatorch has a dimmer switch; the Squidbrite has a high/low option plus a flashing mode), flexible tripod arms that can wrap around objects, and are magnetic (the SquidBrite’s back and the Gorillatorch’s feet).

  The Gorillatorch and the SquidBrite can be found online starting at around $26.

  Any Toolmongers out there have experience with the Gorillatorch or the SquidBrite? What did you think?

  Gorillatorch [Manufacturer's Site]
  Joby Gorillatorch Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Gorillatorch Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Stanley SB0109 SquidBrite [What’s This?] [Amazon]
  Squidbrite Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  Fast Electrical Butt Splices

  Posted: March 30th, 2010, 10:31am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Last week Ideal announced their new solution for butt splicing wires together quickly and easily: SpliceLine in-line wire connectors. They tout two major uses for the new connectors, making prefabbed electrical assemblies faster to install and lengthening short wires inside of electrical boxes.

  To use the connectors you simply push the end of a stripped wire into the connector — no crimping or twisting. The connectors are small enough that three can pass through a 1/2″ knockout, and they accept 12-20AWG solid and 12-16AWG stranded wires so you don’t have to carry multiple connector sizes. You can see through the connectors to inspect the connection and there are check ports you can stick a probe into to verify continuity.

  Ideal claims they will make the SpliceLine Connectors in the USA in lots of 10, 100, 300, and 2500, but they haven’t yet released their pricing scheme.

  SpliceLine [Ideal]
  Press Release [Ideal]

• 

  Wavy Fastener Gun

  Posted: March 29th, 2010, 1:16pm MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Recently, Rockler threw its hat into the ring of corrugated fastener tools with its own rebranded entry.  Think of a corrugated fastener as a type of wavy staple that can be used to hold face frames or any other two pieces of wood that butt together — simpler and faster than toe-nailing or using pocket screws. They’re driven by an air powered tool you’d have a hard time telling apart from a nail gun.

  I don’t recognize the construction, so I’m not sure who actually makes the tool, but it drives 1/2″ wide corrugated fasteners into both hard and soft wood. The fasteners come in lengths of 1/4″, 3/8″, or 1/2″ and are bound in magazines which are easy to load.

  Rockler ships their corrugated fastener tool with lubricating oil and a pair of safety goggles. They priced it at $230 which, according to Google Products, is about the middle of the road — you can pay a lot more for a Senco or a lot less for an Air Locker. Depending on their length, the fasteners themselves range from $13, $15, or $16 per box of 1000.
  

  Corrugated Fastener Tool [Rockler]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  Flickr Pool: The Mother Lode

  Posted: March 29th, 2010, 12:25pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  TM reader Noel C. Hankamer recently posted pics* in the Flickr pool of his massive treasure trove of “old, rusty tools” — all purchased from a single local source. According to Noel’s photo captions, wrenches, saws, levels, planes, valve tools, coffee grinders, grease guns, screwdrivers, jacks, and a kerosene blowtorch were among the collection. We at Toolmonger offer you a hearty congratulations on this great find, sir!

  And one last question: if other Toolmongers came across a similar diamond-mine-in-the-rough, what would you be most pleased to find in there? I’d personally go for anything related to musical instruments — horns, guitars, drum keys, etc. Let us know in comments!

  *Thanks to Flickr user Noel C. Hankamer for use of the great cc-licensed photo!

• 

  It’s Just Cool: Tooltime Flatware

  Posted: March 29th, 2010, 11:16am MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  The best art is unexpected, fresh, and makes us think again about the things around us — often about things that are normally mundane. Walking Chair Design Studios in Vienna has a sweet website with a number of unique products that will make you do a double-take. The “Tooltime” flatware they designed about ten years ago caught my eye; I can’t find it currently available for purchase anywhere, but this might be just the kind of project Toomlongers could do in their own shops, thanks to Walking Chair’s inspiration.

  Do any Toolmongers use the shop for creative home arts, whether decorative or practical? Drop by the TM Flickr pool and share photos of your projects! We’d love to check them out.

  Tooltime Flatware at DesignCrack.com
  Walking Chair Design Studio [Website]
  WalkingThings.com [Walking Chair Products]

• 

  Adhesive-Lined Heat Shrink Tubing

  Posted: March 29th, 2010, 10:48am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Standard heat shrink tubing is pretty handy stuff, and the addition of an adhesive lining can make it even more so. Typically made from cross-linked polyolefin, which is stronger than PVC and does not burn like PVC, this tubing, with its heat-activated adhesive, provides a tight seal against water, oils, acids, and sunlight. The tubing’s major markets are marine, RVs, and campers, but I like it as a general-purpose heat shrink because of the better seal.

  The main suppliers are Ancor, 3M™, and Raychem (Tyco).

  Depending on diameter, length, and number of pieces, packages of adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing cost $2 to $39. Kits with a variety of sizes and colors are available, also.

  I suppose you could approximate the results using standard heat shrink with a subsequent coating from a hot-glue gun, but using the adhesive-lined tubing is much quicker and likely results in a better seal. What do you Toolmongers think?

  Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing [Manufacturer's Site - Ancor]
  3M™ Dual Wall Tubing [Manufacturer's Site - 3M™]
  Raychem Heat Shrink Tubing [Manufacturer's Site - Tyco]
  Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Ancor Street Pricing [Google products]

• 

  Dealmonger: Streamlight Stylus LED Pen Light $14

  Posted: March 29th, 2010, 8:12am MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  A retail site called Your-Flashlights.com has the best deal online for the Streamlight Stylus LED Pen Light at $13.95. The pen is 6.21 inches long with a waterproof black aluminum body and a pocket clip. The manufacturer claims it runs up to 60 hours on three AAAA batteries (included in purchase). You also get two settings: blinking or a standard “on” switch.

  What’s really cool about this stylus is its red LED pen light can be seen from over a mile away. If you work outside at night, go on midnight earthworm hunts for fishing bait, or enjoy amateur astronomy, you know that red light allows you to direct someone’s vision or illuminate an object without the glaring effect and temporary vision loss that comes with standard lights.

  The bottom line: Want to see in the dark with no glare? Go red. And for $14 you can readily pick one up and keep it handy for late-night stargazing.

  Streamlight Stylus LED Pen Light - Red [Your-Flashlights.com]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Eureka Cleanout Plug Wrench

  Posted: March 26th, 2010, 9:42am MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  Cleanouts are fittings that attach to sinks and other plumbing fixtures to allow access to the drains without removing the whole fixture. It seems like we only pay attention to our drains when there’s a problem, and cleanout plugs are notoriously difficult to remove. Stuck drain cleanout plugs can ideally be removed with some WD-40 and a wrench, but often you have to use a chisel and a ball peen hammer or even break the plug into pieces to take it off.

  This Eureka Cleanout Plug Wrench from Pasco (pictured above) is made of high carbon steel and includes tapered thread taps. Cleanout plug wrenches, also called drum tap wrenches, run about $12 from Amazon, and should make a difficult job a little easier.

  Pasco’s Eureka Cleanout Plug Wrench Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Eureka Cleanout Plug Wrench [Pasco]

• 

  GM/Segway EN-V

  Posted: March 26th, 2010, 8:11am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Consumer Reports Cars Blog, and several others, have noted the recent introduction of the GM EN-V (Electric Networked Vehicle) at World Expo 2010 Shanghai. GM and Segway have expanded the Segway P.U.M.A. (Personal Urban Mobility and Accessibility) platform that Segway demonstrated in April 2009. There are three models for future transportation: the Jiao (Pride), the Miao (Magic), and the Xiao (Laugh) — don’t. Propulsion is provided by lithium-ion battery-powered electric motors in the units’ two wheels.

  As in the Segway, dynamic stabilization provides balance. If it’s like the P.U.M.A., sitting forward or reclining in the seat will control forward motion and braking; tilting the yoke will provide steering.

  

  The EN-Vs weigh less than 500 kg, and are about 1.5 m long. Carbon fiber, Lexan, and acrylic are the main components of the body and canopy. A single charge should allow an EN-V to “travel at least 40 kilometers.” These two seaters can turn on their own axis.

  Having done a Segway tour of Austin, I think the EN-Vs are a neat concept, but I’m not sure about the two-seater concept: somebody leans the wrong way, and you’re toast.

  EN-V Concept [Manufacturer's Site]

  Photo Gallery of GM EN-V Concept Cars [Popular Science]

• 

  Get Your Garden Started: Mantis Tiller/Cultivator

  Posted: March 25th, 2010, 3:55pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  Despite a late snowfall last week, spring is FINALLY here in Texas and people are making plans for their vegetable and herb gardens. While researching tillers for a friend, I found that Mantis reviews online far exceed those of other manufacturers when it comes to quality, durability, and warranty. The Mantis tiller/cultivator, shown above, weighs only 24 lbs. It’s powered by a 4-cycle Honda 25cc engine that’s both quieter and more powerful than the 2-cycle tillers.

  The Mantis 4-cycle is gas-powered and requires no fuel mixing, as some tillers do. It includes a variable throttle and a shut-off switch to avoid “run-away” machinery, and digs as deep as 10″. The gear box is aluminum cast in a single piece for extreme durability.

  Mantis guarantees their reversible serpentine tines against breakage for life, and they offer a risk-free trial — if you buy directly from Mantis, you can return the tiller up to a year later for a “complete, no-hassle” refund. Additionally, all components of any of their tillers are warrantied for 5 years against defects in workmanship and materials. Everything purchased from Mantis qualifies for free shipping.

  

  The cons of the Mantis? Many reviewers complain it’s not the best at dealing with very hard or rocky soil. And the 9″ tilling width means a loooong time tilling if you’re planting a really big garden. But the warranties and refund guarantee, the Consumer Digest seal of approval, and the wide availability of parts and accessories seem to make this one a good call.

  The Mantis 4-cycle runs $449 direct from Mantis, and the 2-cycle is $349. Other options include their 16″ XP tiller for $599 and the 9″ wide electric (plug-in) tiller, also for $349.

  If you’ve had experience with Mantis tillers or others, let us know in comments what you think are the best choices for home gardeners.

  Mantis Tillers [Manufacturer's Site]
  Reviews of Mantis Tillers [gardenrototillers.com]
  Mantis Tillers Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Mantis 4-Cycle Tiller Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Stop Green Wood From Tearing Itself Apart

  Posted: March 25th, 2010, 2:47pm MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  As wood dries, it shrinks, causing it to crack and split. So if you find a beautiful piece of green wood that you’d like to work, you need a way to keep the piece from tearing itself apart as it dries. Pentacryl is a quick drying and non-toxic liquid which can be applied to green wood to stabilize it.

  Pentacryl won’t discolor the wood and most stains and glues will work after it’s dry. Once it’s applied by brushing, spraying, or soaking, siliconized polymers reinforce the cells in the wood so they keep their shape as they dry. It can even reduce drying time compared to wax coating methods.

  You can buy Pentacryl by the quart, gallon, five-gallon, or drum. A quart will cost you about $20 while a 55 gallon drum runs $1500. If you want to prevent dry wood from further cracking, you can try out their Wood Juice product.

  Pentacryl [Preservative Solutions]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  A Strap Of Many Uses

  Posted: March 25th, 2010, 2:43pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  A strap wrench consists of a plastic or wooden handle with a flexible rubber strap that often has small ridges that help it grip round, slick-surfaced, or odd-shaped objects. The tool is used to tighten, loosen, or twist objects such as shower heads, polished, glass, or PVC piping, water and oil filters, and even jar lids. Its main advantages are its flexibility and its ability to grip tightly without scratching or marring the object’s surface.

  The 12″ handle Klein strap wrench above provides “cam-action design” that allows “uniform, high-torque application.” Weighing in at 0.8 lbs, the Klein 12″ has a diameter range of 1.5 to 5″, as does the 6″ version. The 18″ strap wrench adjusts between 1 1/8″ to 8″, but is usually quite a bit more expensive, running closer to $70 compared to about $12 and $20 for the 6″ and the 12″, respectively.

  My question is: What other unique applications have Toolmongers devised for strap wrenches? It seems they’d be as good around the house as in the shop, and I suspect people have some great ideas that would save the rest of us a lot of time, pain, and grunting noises. Let us know your ideas for uses in comments!

  Klein Grip-It Strap Wrenches [Manufacturer's Site]
  Street Pricing for Klein Strap Wrenches [Google Products]
  12″ Klein Strap Wrench Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Name That Wrench

  Posted: March 25th, 2010, 1:59pm MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  You’ve probably seen these wrenches included in tools kits that come with bikes, gas tools, or other machinery.  Evidently in the UK these wrenches are called tubular box spanners, but what we call them here in the states escapes me. I’ve done a fair bit of searching and can’t find our name for them.  Obviously we’re not going to call them spanners, and a search for “tubular box wrenches” turns up a completely different tool.

  Made from high quality carbon steel and plated with zinc, this particular set of six spanners from Draper is double ended to fit 12 different Metric sizes:  8mm & 9mm, 10mm & 11mm, 12mm & 13mm, 14mm & 15mm, 16mm & 17mm, and 18mm & 19mm. The set also includes two “tommy” bars, 100mm and 150mm long.

  This set of wrenches cost about 6 Euros or 8 dollars. If you know what to call these tools in American English, please drop a line in the comments.

  Tubular Box Spanner [Draper]

• 

  Hot Or Not: Magnifying Safety Glasses

  Posted: March 24th, 2010, 1:56pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  Many Toolmongers are familiar with the eye strain that comes with years of examining fine measurements, instruction manuals, and other close-up work in the shop. Since it’s such a common issue, a slew of companies makes various types of magnifying and bifocal safety glasses — 3M, Fastcap, DeWalt, Apex, and Smith and Wesson, to name a few (pictured above are the $10 SB-9000 bifocal safety glasses from Phillips Safety Products).

  As someone who’s worn glasses most of my life, I’ve always been suspicious of drugstore-type generic “reading” glasses and the like. Everyone who needs vision correction has specific requirements, and generic safety bifocals sound to me about as appealing as cochlear implants from Walmart or dental work from the 7-11.

  

  But maybe I’m completely wrong, and inexpensive magnifying safety glasses are just a quick way to get a close look, like a standard magnifying glass. In fact, DeWalt’s High Performance Safety Glasses [What’s This?] (pictured above, in a cool, Fonzie-esque smoky gray) seem to be popular at Amazon, and many reviewers claim it’s a perfectly fine and affordable alternative to expensive prescription safety glasses. Most bifocal safety glasses offer various options in magnification power, and if you do pick up a pair, they should meet ISEA (International Safety Equipment Association) or ANSI requirements for eye protection.

  So, what do Toolmongers think? Pay for quality, or keep a few cheap pairs around to protect your aging eyes (and the regular glasses you’ve already invested in)?

  
  ISEA Eye and Face Protection Standards [Website]
  Street Pricing for Magnifying Safety Glasses [Google Products]
  Magnifying Safety Glasses Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  It’s Just Cool: Garage Door Photo Tarpaulins

  Posted: March 24th, 2010, 11:51am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Now That’s Nifty blog reports on photo tarpaulins from the German company Style Your Garage. These tarps are giant flexible photos designed for “up-and-over” garage doors, and they attach with Velcro. They have a variety of themes ranging from vehicles to landscapes to animals and more. Some of my favorites are the jet plane

  

  Italy

  

  and, for those with double garage doors, the dump truck.

  

  If you don’t want to do your garage door, the company also has similar products for standard doors and windows. Prices are $225 for the single-door garage versions, and $439 and up for the double-door and triple-door garage versions. The single-door “motif of the week” is $185.

  Style-Your-Garage [Manufacturer's Site]

• 

  Rugged Ridge Recovery Kit

  Posted: March 24th, 2010, 11:49am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  As a volunteer with the local county’s CERT*, I’m always on the lookout for safety items and search-and-rescue tools that can help in emergencies — plus it gives me an excuse to look at and buy stuff for my truck. This Rugged Ridge kit is aimed at the 4×4 crowd, but it could also be useful to the less off-road user. The kit contains a 2″×30′ 20,000 lb. recovery strap, a 3″×6′ 30,000 lb. tree trunk protector strap, a 20,000 lb. snatch block pulley, two heavy-duty 9,500 lb. D-rings, a winch line damper, a pair of leather gloves, and a storage bag. It’s available online for as low as $70.

  Couple this kit with a 4.75-ton-weight-rating Smittybilt Receiver Hitch D-Ring in your 2″ hitch receiver, and you can be the puller — or pullee — of choice in an emergency.

  Rugged Ridge 15104.25 Recovery Gear Kit Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Recovery Gear Kit [Manufacturer's Site]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]

  *Community Emergency Response Team

• 

  Dealmonger: Makita 18-Volt Li-Ion Battery

  Posted: March 24th, 2010, 9:48am MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  Currently, Amazon is selling the Makita BL1830 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Battery for a reasonable $67.70 with free Super Saver shipping. Makita claims that charging it at any time won’t affect the battery’s performance, and that a “built-in memory chip memorizes the usage history and communicates with the charger to to maximize battery life using 3 Active Controls (Current, Voltage & Thermal).” Sixteen contact terminals keep power fluctuations at bay in high-vibration work environments.

  Reviews [What’s This?] on Amazon generally indicate that the Makita battery holds a charge extremely well, but that the battery life can wear out too soon. Others recommend sticking with Ni-cads or just protecting the battery from cold weather. What are Toolmongers’ suggestions on the best batteries for your cordless tools?

  Street Pricing [Google Shopping]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  A Quicker Way To Get Rid Of Mistakes

  Posted: March 23rd, 2010, 12:24pm MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Sure we learn by our mistakes, but we don’t have to advertise them to the world. If you make more mistakes than the tiny nub of an eraser on your pencil can handle, maybe it’s time to upgrade to an electric eraser like the above Sakura model.

  Powered by two AAA batteries, this compact eraser runs spins at 12,000 RPM to quickly remove marks.  Designed to be easy to control and comfortable to use, it weighs only 2.8 oz. It uses two different types of erasers: white vinyl for pencil and blue solvent for drafting ink.

  Pricing for the electric eraser starts around $35 before shipping. You can pick up a 70-pack of replacement erasers for about seven or eight bucks.

  Electric Eraser [Sakura]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Make Flush Cuts With Your Jigsaw

  Posted: March 23rd, 2010, 11:56am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  It may not happen often, but sometimes you need to make a cut flush with the edge of your saw — you might be in a tight space or there’s some obstruction in the way preventing you from completing the cut. This is no problem with a hand saw, but it’s almost impossible with a tool like a jigsaw where the blade can be over an inch away from the edge of the shoe. That’s where a flush cut blade like DeWalt’s DW3311 comes in handy.

  Made in the USA, the 4″ T-shank style blade fits Bosch and DeWalt saws. The 11-tooth-per-inch blade has a 3″ cutting length. The body is thick to minimize deflection, and we’re guessing the relief holes are probably for clearing chips, keeping the blade cool, or reducing the mass of the blade. You’re not going to cut tight circles with this blade chucked into your jigsaw, but it will let you cut to the front of your jigsaw’s shoe if the blade is less than 1-1/4″ away from the edge.

  Other companies like Mibro and Vermont American sell similar products, but pricing for Dewalt’s version of the flush cut jigsaw blade starts at $7 before shipping, according to Google Products.

  Flush Cut Jigsaw Blade [DeWalt]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Flush Cut Jigsaw Blade [McFeely's]

• 

  #9 Unibit Step Drill

  Posted: March 22nd, 2010, 11:16am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Another tool I found useful during a recent installation of a solar-powered renewable energy system was the Irwin Unibit® #9 step drill that has what appears to be 14 total steps with two major steps sized (7/8″ and 1-1/8″) for 1/2″ and 3/4″ knockouts in electrical junction boxes and panels. We had more than one instance where an existing box had only 1/2″ KOs, and we needed to bring in some 3/4″ conduit. I suspect there’s an adapter for just this purpose, but the #9 step drill proved very handy and easily enlarged the holes in metal junction boxes. The Irwin 10239 Unibit® has a hex shank, a single-fluted cutting edge, and a SpeedPoint™ self-starting tip. They can be found online for $45 to $50.

  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  High Speed Steel Fractional Self Starting Unibit® [Manufacturer's Site]
  Irwin 10239 Unibit 9 Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Quickly Locate Holes In Ceramic Tile

  Posted: March 22nd, 2010, 10:12am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  When you’re installing tile you want to cut holes for fixtures in the right place the first time. There are several ways to do this pretty accurately: measuring the location and transferring the measurements to the tile, placing the tile over a previous tile and using another tile to transfer the location of the hole, or making a template out of cardboard.

  Compared to the above methods, Kapro’s 303 ceramic hole marker is just a faster reusable template. You can use it to copy the positions of pipe holes right onto tile. Slip the closed hole over a pipe stub and align the handle with the corner of the installed tile, tighten the screw lock, and transfer the measurement to your tile.

  Kapro likens their 303 ceramic tile hole marker to a T-bevel with the addition of a hole at one end and a half-hole at the other with inner radii of 32mm (1.25″) and outer radii of 75 mm (2.95″). They manufacture the blade from PVC and mark it in both inches and centimeters. They construct the handle from fiberglass reinforced polymer and give it markings on the handle every 15°. A right angle wing on the handle allows you to align the tool repeatedly.

  Given the specific use of this tool, it’s hard to imagine anybody but a professional installer purchasing it, but it’s a relatively cheap investment of as little as $8 before shipping.

  Ceramic Hole Marker [Kapro]
  Ceramic Hole Marker [Utter Guys]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Pex Pocket Crimper

  Posted: March 22nd, 2010, 9:21am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  If you only need to crimp a few Pex fittings and you don’t want to carry a large Pex crimper around, the Pex Pocket Crimper might be for you. Using a set of 10″ locking pliers, the Pex Pocket Crimper allows you to crimp fittings onto 3/8″, 1/2″, and 3/4″ Pex tubing.

  The crimper is small enough to fit into tight places and it also separates into two pieces at the joint, allowing you to use it in cramped quarters.

  To use the tool, prep the tubing, slip the crimp ring over the tubing, and insert the fitting into the tubing. Then place the crimper over the ring and squeeze the ends of the PexPocket Crimper with locking pliers. Finally, check your crimp with the supplied go-no-go gauge.

  Manufactured in the US, the Pex Pocket Crimper will run you about $30 with $6 shipping and handling. If you’re interested in crimping larger sized PEX they also make a 1″ version which they ship for $41.

  Pex Pocket Crimper [Corporate Site]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Festool Ultimate System Sweepstakes

  Posted: March 22nd, 2010, 8:34am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  I’ve seen this mentioned in a few different blogs, so it must be important. Fine Homebuilding and Festool are running a sweepstakes and giving away over $10,000 of tools and accessories. First prize is worth more than $6,000 and includes the Kapex KS120 Compound Sliding Miter Saw. The more than $3,000 second prize includes an MFT/3 Multifunction Table, and the over $1,500 third prize starts with a CT 22 HEPA Dust Extractor. More details, and the entry form, can be found at the link below. You have until May 31 to enter. Good luck!

  FESTOOL Ultimate System Sweepstakes [Fine Homebuilding]

• 

  Kreg’s Multi-Mark

  Posted: March 22nd, 2010, 8:07am MDT by Benjamen Johnson

  

  This month Kreg made its Multi-Mark multi-tool available for sale. It joins a long line of measuring multi-tools of dubious value like the Level Best2, the Squangle, and the Multiscribe Pro to name a few.

  The tool appears to have two parts – a plastic handle with an embedded bubble vial and a slotted metal blade marked in increments of 1/16″ inches and apparently in Metric. The blade attaches to one of two points on the handle with a brass thumbscrew.  Around one of the attachment points there are notches to keep the blade perpendicular to the handle. The blade evidently can also ride in a recess, keeping it parallel to the handle and 3/16″ away from at least one edge of the handle.

  You can use the tool as a depth gauge, square, level and ruler, but some more advanced uses would be to layout mitered corners, set 3/16″ reveals, and transfer measurements.

  The Multi-Mark retails for $20, but you can find it for as little as $16.

  Multi-Mark [Kreg]
  Multi-Mark [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  You Light Up My… Steak

  Posted: March 16th, 2010, 6:01pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  For some of you, grilling weather may be approaching or already here. For others, there’s no such thing as “grill weather” or “grill time,” since ALL the time is grill time. As a member of the latter group, I was researching grill lights since it’s often already dark outside by dinnertime. Until now we’ve been relying on a giant, 20-lb., retina-searing emergency lamp, but it looks like more fitting options can be had.

  The Weber 7516 Grill Out Handle Light, pictured above, runs about $25 and gets pretty good reviews at Amazon [What’s This?]. The Weber light is made for Weber grills, of course, and has a sensor that turns the light on and off automatically as you open and shut the grill lid. A few reviewers mention that you need to remember to turn off the power switch on the light so it doesn’t drain the batteries.

  The Brinkmann LED clamp-on grill light [What’s This?] runs about $23. The manufacturer claims it’s fine in wet weather, and it comes with 3 AAA batteries.

  The 6-LED clip-on grill light from Chefs Basics [What’s This?] is less expensive at just $12, has a wide, flat grip spring clamp, and a long bendable neck. Plus, it looks a lot like Johnny-5 (or WALL-E for you young’uns), and that alone is a positive for me.

  

  The Maverick GL-03 Cordless LED light [What’s This?] is a similar wide-clamp style, bendable-neck type with a stainless office-lamp looking head. Maverick’s name is well known in barbecue accessories, but more than a few Amazon reviewers commented that theirs died suddenly within the first few weeks.

  Other options include tinier clip-on lights for around $10 all the way up to $80 LEDs that look similar to those mentioned here. There’s also the miner-style light on the helmet, or the good old MagLite tucked under your arm. And yes, you can learn to tell when meat’s cooked by poking at it with tongs. But whatever your preference, get out there and grill, and don’t let the cold or the dark stop you.

  BBQ Grill Lights [Google Products]
  BBQ Grill Lights Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Some Varieties of Grill Lights [Shopwiki.com]

• 

  Klein Dual NM Cable Stripper/Cutter

  Posted: March 16th, 2010, 5:27pm MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  I’ve recently been working on the installation of a solar system, and have found the Klein 1412 Dual NM Cable Stripper/Cutter to be very handy for the electrical work. To begin with, this tool has two stripping slots that quickly remove the outer sheath of 12/2 and 14/2 of Type NM-B (a.k.a. Romex) cable. Then it adds two stripping holes for removing the insulation of 12 and 14 AWG wires. 6-32 and 8-32 screw shearing holes, a thin serrated nose for gripping, bending, and pulling wire, shear-type blades for cutting solid copper wire, and holes for wire looping and bending. To top it off, there are cushion-grip handles, a closure lock, and spring loading so it’s self-opening.

  All this can be yours for around $17.

  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Klein 1412 Dual Non-Metal Cable Stripper Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Dual NM Cable Stripper/Cutter [Manufacturer's Site]

• 

  Insulation (The Sequel): Attic Stairs

  Posted: March 16th, 2010, 5:19pm MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Now that we’ve got the garage door insulation covered — covered, get it? — (TM 3/15/10), what about those attic fold-down, or drop-down access, stairs? The set in our current house is in the laundry room near the back door to the garage, and seems to be a source of cool or warm air depending on the season. I’ve found many options for insulating such stairs, ranging from bare-bones DIY project plans to spiffy kit installation. The installation kits seem to start around $45, then jump to $99.95 and higher depending on the size of the stairs’ opening and height of the stairs in the attic when closed.

  Building my own cover box is appealing from both from the get-a-chance-to-play-with-tools and general frugality viewpoints, but I’m open to other approaches if they do a better job. What have fellow Toolmongers done? Any general pros or cons?

  Draft Cap [Manufacturer's Site]
  Therm-A-Lid [Manufacturer's Site]
  Attic Tent [Manufacturer's Site]
  Attic Stairway Insulator [Owens Corning}
  Battic Door Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Attic Stairs Cover Box [U.S. Dept. of Energy]

• 

  How-To: Top Gear-Style Game Room Seating

  Posted: March 15th, 2010, 4:13pm MDT by Chuck Cage

  

  We’re pretty big fans of the BBC’s awesome show Top Gear around the Toolmonger offices, so when I needed some quick and cheap seating for my game room I passed up the furniture store and headed straight to the junkyard. $75 and an afternoon with the welder netted me a quick facsimile of the chairs the Top Gear hosts sit in during their news segment each week — and left me plenty of cash for beer.

  First off, a little advice about pulling seats: I generally look for leather seats because they’re much easier to clean up than fabric. (Unless the fabric seats are spotless, in which case, go for it, though often the guy at the counter will demand extra money for good-looking seats.) When it comes to leather seats, the dirtier they are the better. The dirt and grime tend to create a coating that protects the seat from the really nasty stuff. And like you can with a cow, you can scrub leather seats to your heart’s content to get ‘em clean.

  

  The single seat in the photos here came from a late ’90s Diamante. When I pulled it you couldn’t really tell what color it was. Personally, I think it cleaned up nicely.

  The next problem you’ll run into is the fact that the bottom of the passenger compartment in most cars isn’t flat. Therefore the seats connect to four points all in different planes in order to fit wherever on the floor they need to connect. Since we wanted to build simple little boxes to hold the seats up, we had to account for that.

  

  The bases of our seats are built from cheap-o 16-gauge 1-inch square tube, mainly because I happened to have about 30′ of it lying around the shop. You can use whatever you have on hand.

  To determine the proper height, I measured various couches and loveseats around the house. They ranged from 16″ to about 20″, so I selected 18″ for these. Sitting the seats on the ground, I measured from the ground to the seat top, then constructed the box below to whatever height was required to make up the difference.

  

  You can approach building the bases however you wish, but I started by measuring the width and height of the seats, then building a simple stand to my measured height. Then with the help of a friend, I placed the seats on the boxes and tacked in locator points wherever the seat touched the box. If you plan on taking them apart again, you can drill and tap holes before bolting the seat on, but since I didn’t care, I just welded it on. The bench’s front mounts all fell in different places, but they lined up pretty well to an angled crossbar. So I just welded the crossbar in at an angle and hooked ‘em up. I also welded the two portions of the split seat together and shimmed the center back with a few pieces of 1″ x 1/8″ flat bar before final welding.

  As you can see, the seat easily holds me and David Juandrew, my partner in crime who helped me build these this weekend. We bounced up and down on them pretty good, and they’re still in one piece.

  

  Of course, the actual Top Gear seats are much fancier and include arm rests. But hey — your version of these seats is limited only by your time and wallet. Mine were short and thin, respectively, so I went the simple route. Do feel free to get creative finding just the right seat, though!

• 

  King Toe: For Big, Um, Toes

  Posted: March 15th, 2010, 3:52pm MDT by Chuck Cage

  

  Kidding aside, if you’re one of those folks that likes your toes to fly free in your boots, you probably hate most steel-toes — and not just because they’re heavy. Most steel toe boots reign in toe room because they need the extra room to cram in the steel box that gives ‘em their name. Red Wing feels your constriction, though: Their King Toe models offer 44% more toe room.

  They also include non-metallic safety toes, which Red Wing claims will pass through metal detectors. They’re non-conductive, too, a real benefit if you’re an electrician or work around high-voltage rigs. Besides that, they come in a whole bunch of styles. The above mode is a 6″ boot with full grain waterproof leather uppers. I personally like 6″ boots, but if you like the big ‘uns (or oxford-like shoes), they’ve got ‘em — complete with the extra toe space.

  Street pricing starts around $100 and ranges up to $200 or so based on the model you choose.

  King Toe Models [Red Wing]
  The Men’s 435 (Pictured) [Red Wing]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  How-To: Choose Home Air Filters

  Posted: March 15th, 2010, 3:23pm MDT by Audra Heaslip

  

  Spring has officially sprung here in Texas, and even if your hometown’s still under the Groundhog’s curse for a few more weeks, you’re probably considering replacing those nasty, wintrified heating and a/c filters in your home. Realizing that waking up every day with a stuffy nose may be due to my crap-clogged filters, I hit the big box on a mission. Unfortunately when I got there and saw 300 varieties of air filters ranging from “high performance electrostatic” ($$$$) to fiberglass ($), I realized I needed some guidance. Here’s what I learned.

  To make sure you’re selecting the appropriate kind of air filter for your home, consider whether any pollutants (indoors, in your garage/shop, or outdoors) are affecting the air quality inside. Household chemicals, pesticides, mold or mildew, high humidity, improperly vented appliances, standing water or leaks, or (obviously) if anyone smokes inside the house are factors that can be identified and fixed first.

  Second, assuming your home filters are designed more for providing healthy air in the living space (as opposed to protecting machines or equipment), take into account how you or your family responds to allergens such as dust mites, pollen, mold spores, smoke, pet dander, and smog. The better quality the filter, the smaller the particles it can capture, and without interrupting the air flow of your HVAC system too much, which is paramount for efficiency. Also, check the MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) of the filter: they range from 1-16, and the 12-16 range are the highest quality at 90+% efficiency.

  Home air filters are divided into six basic types:

  1. Electrostatic air filters - As air passes through the filter, a static charge is created that attracts contaminants. Electrostatic filters are very efficient, provide an excellent balance of efficiency and performance, and are designed to replace panel- or frame-style filters you already use in your HVAC system. They often run at or above 90% efficiency or a MERV of 12-15 (compared to 10% for fiberglass), and come in permanent or disposable types. They can be pricey, running around $70, but they do the job well.

  

  2. Pre-cut or bulk roll media air filter pads - Used mainly by HVAC professionals, media air filters have a very high capacity for capturing particles (up to 30 times more capacity than fiberglass) and the pads can be changed out regularly to fit in a single aluminum frame. The pads are made from dry-tack polyester and are disposable. Media air filter pads are not widely available but can be ordered from web sites such as RiteAir.

  3. Pleated air filters - Popular because of their durability and affordability, pleated filters are widely available in a variety of (even oddball) sizes and are one of the HVAC industry standards. Some include electrostatic fibers or carbon or charcoal fibers for odor control. MERV ratings for pleated filters range widely from around 5 to 12; for allergy sufferers the 10-12 range would be best.

  

  4. HEPA air filters - To qualify as HEPA (or high efficiency particulate arrestance), a filter must capture at least 99.97% of particulate matter 0.3 microns in diameter. HEPA filters are used in hospital and surgical rooms or other places where clean, particulate-free air is essential. They have the highest filter capacity of all, but require a lot of maintenance since dirty HEPA filters significantly reduce airflow and can cause HVAC system problems if not kept clean.

  5. Activated carbon air filters - Activated carbon is charcoal treated to cause millions of pores to form, increasing surface area. Usually carbon filters are added to another type, such as media air filters, because of their ability to remove odors from smoke, chemicals, gases, and other odor-causing substances around the house. They are not recommended in combination with HEPA filters because HEPAs already reduce airflow.

  6. Fiberglass panel air filters - Very inexpensive and (unfortunately) commonly used, “blue” fiberglass filters basically capture about as much dust as chicken wire and leave particles of crap blowing around your HVAC system, in your lungs, and in all your equipment too. It’s best to avoid these if at all possible.

  

  The bottom line? If allergies are a major concern, air filters are probably just one step you need to take to improve air quality in your home, but for the highest quality, go with electrostatic filters, and get the permanent ones like the Boair 5-stage if you can afford it. If you just want a simple, decent quality disposable air filter, I’d go with the pleated filters from 3M’s Filtrete with electrostatic treatment. They range from $7-30 each depending on size and quality, and need to be replaced every 3 months or so.

  Filtrete Filters Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Filtrete Filters Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Guide To HVAC Filters [Furnace Filter Care]
  EPA Guide to Air Cleaners In The Home
  Article: Understanding Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV)

• 

  DIY Lockring Pliers

  Posted: March 15th, 2010, 11:58am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Instructables has a short post on a quick way to make your own bicycle lockring, or head race, pliers that I find quite elegant in its simplicity. You take an inexpensive pair of water-pump (a.k.a., channellocks, or tongue-and-groove) pliers. Then file or grind away most of the teeth except the front ones, and, voilà, you’re good to go — and at a much lower cost than for a dedicated spanner or lockring pliers that can be $30 to $50 or more.

  It seems like these might also work well on those electrical box connector nuts when pounding on them with a screwdriver doesn’t seem to do the trick.

  DIY Lockring Pliers [Instructables]
  Hozan Head Race Pliers Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Hot Or Not? Garage Door Insulation

  Posted: March 15th, 2010, 11:46am MDT by Gordon DeWitte

  

  What’s the word in Toolmonger land regarding the pros and cons of insulating garage doors? The picture above shows the beginning of an installation using a reflective foil kit, one of the apparently three main DIY approaches (the other two being foam panels and fiberglass rolls). Texas Garages is one site that discusses and compares the various approaches. Costs to do a single garage door range from $69 to $129.

  I tried white fiberglass rolls in the garage door of our previous house and they did seem to help, although it was quite subjective as I didn’t make any before-and-after temperature measurements. I suspect that it just generally felt better out there because the white rolls helped brighten up the dingy old dark door.

  What do you think? Have you done this? Would you do it? If the garage’s ceiling and walls are already insulated, doesn’t it make sense to insulate the door, too? Does it make more sense if you live in a cold climate than if you live in a warmer — or, like in central Texas, a damn hot at times — climate?

  Garage Door Insulation Kit Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Garage Door Insulation In A Weekend [Owens Corning]
  Owens Corning Kit Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  The Week In Tools: Toolmonger Top 5

  Posted: March 12th, 2010, 2:11pm MST by Sean O'Hara

  
  
  

  It’s been a busy week here at Toolmonger. If you’ve been spending time in the shop — you should! — and you haven’t had a chance to keep up with Toolmonger this week, we suggest you start with these posts, which our readers helped to select:

  The Penta Square
  Besides just measuring 45° and 90° like a combination square, the Penta Square also measures 22.5° and 60°.  But, that’s only four measurements; penta is a prefix for five. Either they’re considering 180° a measurement, or else they’re call it that because of the irregular pentagon-shaped body.

  Editorial: Made In… Part 3
  In part one of this editorial, I discussed the international nature of large tool companies, and I laid out my basic opinion: that the “Made in…” stamp doesn’t provide enough information to determine a tool’s quality. In part two, I discussed the manufacturing process. Read on as I endeavor to explain what all this means to you as a tool consumer.

  Micro Kerf Blade Pinches Dimes, Not Pennies
  The 10″ Micro Kerf Blade is a carbide-tipped, 40-tooth blade meant for both rips and crosscuts. Total Saw Solutions claims the saw kerf is half that of a standard thin-kerf blade, as thin as the width of a dime. This is one finely machined blade — the plate is precision ground and tensioned so that runout is less that 1/2 the thickness of a human hair.

  Wiha Stubby 6-In-1 Sets
  TM has covered stubby* drivers before (e.g., 2/10/07, 7/10/09, and 7/14/09), and their usefulness when just nothing else will fit. Now Wiha has five new stubby 6-In-1 bit sets. The bits are stored in the “Ergo Soft Grip” handle and the overall length, with a bit inserted in the ¼” SS holder, is just 2.5″.

  New PBS Woodworking Show
  The Fine WoodWorking blog reports that Boston’s WGBH will be producing a new PBS woodworking show featuring Thomas J. MacDonald (a.k.a. T. Chisel from his series of web videos). Maybe we’ll have someone to fill the void created when Norm retired from TV?

  Help us choose next week’s Top 5!

  We’d appreciate your help in choosing next week’s Top 5, which’ll be featured here, elsewhere, and in the podcast as well. While you’re reading TM this week, look out for the “Interesting Post” button at the bottom of the article:

  

  When you see an article that piques your interest, click the button once. You’ll return to the same page, but TM’s software’ll score your click for future reference. We’ll check in on the totals before selecting next week’s Top 5.

• 

  Dealmonger: Sears 30 Percent Off Flooring & Storage

  Posted: March 12th, 2010, 9:04am MST by Sean O'Hara

  

  I have been and continue to be a big fan of shop floor coverings. I covet them like the neighbor’s ‘Vette. To help with this sickness Sears has a 30-percent-off deal going down right now with flooring materials and storage.

  Most folks don’t have the scratch to unload thousands for a stainless rollaway and complete makeover with their favorite floor covering, but with 30 percent off until 3.31.10 you’ve got some time to make a play for one or the other. In my case I’d opt for some Rhino-Tec Multi-Purpose PVC tiles to make my shop a little more comfy, but, alas, the money gods are not with me at the moment.

  30 Percent off on Flooring & Storage [Sears]
  Rhino-Tec Multi-Purpose PVC tiles [Sears]

• 

  CRKT ExiTool

  Posted: March 12th, 2010, 8:09am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Gizmodo reports that CRKT® has a new tool for getting out of your car in emergencies. The ExiTool™ combines a seatbelt cutter, a window breaker, and an LED flashlight in one unit that clips onto any standard seatbelt. It’s like a ResQMe (see TM 9/29/07 and 9/28/08) with an LED, but may be more convenient because it’s right there on the seatbelt.

  This tool’s seatbelt cutter is designed so that “it’s virtually impossible for even the smallest fingers to accidentally reach the blade,” which is razor-sharp high-carbon stainless steel able to cut seatbelts with a quick pull. The tungsten carbide breaker point is designed to shatter tempered glass side windows, and the LED is powered by a single CR2032 lithium battery.

  The ExiTool™ is expected to retail for $26.99, and will be “Coming Soon in 2010.”

  What do you think? Would you pick one up for each of your vehicles?

  ExiTool™ [Manufacturer's Site]

• 

  Bostitch Level: “Look Ma, No Hands!”

  Posted: March 11th, 2010, 10:34am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  When I first ran across the Stanley-Bostitch clamping level in Popular Science, I didn’t think much about it because it was pictured just sitting on a surface. Later I came across a picture of the level hanging off the bottom of a 2×4 and thought, “Hey, now that’s pretty cool!”  It’s funny how much difference the choice of picture influences our perceptions of a product.

  From the composite picture above you can tell that the clamping mechanism works two different ways.  When clamping the level to 2x stock the whole clamping mechanism bites into the wood, while on wider stock smaller, yellow legs pop out of the level to hold onto the wood. Stanley-Bostitch doesn’t come right out and say it, but the clamps are probably spring-loaded. The take-away is that by clamping this level to the piece you are trying to position, your hands are free to maneuver it.

  The center vial is magnified so you can see it easier and is bridged so you can use the level as a continuous straight-edge. The bubble vials are accurate to 0.00005in/in and Stanley-Bostitch even makes one of the vials rotate so you can duplicate angles other than the common plumb, level, and 45° found on other levels.

  Clamping Box Beam Level [Stanley-Bostitch]

• 

  Swiss Army Knife — With Laser!

  Posted: March 10th, 2010, 9:21am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  While it’s not the elusive laser-guided screwdriver or hammer, the Victorinox Presentation Master does have a laser pointer, and 8GB, 16GB, or 32GB of USB flash drive storage, and a Bluetooth® remote control, not to mention a blade, nail file with screwdriver, scissors, and key ring. For those of you trying to get through airport security, Victorinox also makes a bladeless version, the Presentation Master Flight.

  These are supposed to be available in April 2010, but several online sites already have pricing starting around $113 and rapidly getting north of $200. If you can live without Bluetooth® — or prefer a retractable ball point pen! — there’s an earlier 4GB version that you can pick up for a mere $55 or so.

  These might make nice executive gifts, but I don’t see your typical Toolmonger rushing out to buy one. I could be wrong. Let us know in comments.

  Presentation Masters [Manufacturer's Site]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  Power Tool Break-In Time

  Posted: March 10th, 2010, 8:10am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  As I was pulling some stuff out of the dryer, I noticed the clothes were actually dry.  When it was new, it sometimes took several full cycles to fully dry a load of clothes, but half a year later the clothes are dry before the cycle is over.  I started wondering, if a machine like my dryer has a break in-period, then what about my power tools?

  How does the performance of a power tool change over time?  Is it a steady decline as soon as you un-box it, or does it start to operate more efficiently as you use it — until parts start to wear out?  It’s probably not as simple as that because there are many competing processes; the blades in machines like table and miter saws start dulling right away, decreasing performance, but the motor may increase in performance after a break-in period. Further complicating matters, as you use the tool you become more comfortable with its operation, which also may make it seem more efficient.

  There are many mechanisms by which a tool could get better as it’s used more. For instance if you have a power tool with a brush motor it can take a while before the brushes wear enough to seat properly.  Rough edges soften, plastic and rubber grips start to conform to your hand over time, and new stiff mechanisms get smoother over time, hopefully without becoming sloppy.

  Have you ever noticed whether your tools seem to work better as they age?  Do you go through any break-in rituals with new power tools?  Let us know in comments.

• 

  Meet Henry And Hetty, Vacuum Cleaners

  Posted: March 9th, 2010, 9:32am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Who can clean your house up with a smile? Henry and Hetty (Henriette) vacuum cleaners from Numatec. Never seen the likes of these two before? They need 240V to work, so unless you live in Europe or a similar-powered country, you’re stuck with faceless vacuum cleaners.

  Both Henry and Hetty come with a two stage motor. They start in the economy setting and when you need more power you push the red switch for hi power mode. A “Triflex” filter and a “Hepaflow” dust bag filter and collect the dirt. What’s really neat is they have a built-in hand-cranked reel to store the 10-meter cord rather wrapping up the cord or using a spring recoil mechanism prone to breakage.

  Pricing for either vacuum starts at $120. The base models come with standard accessories like hose, tubes, and nozzles. As they get more expensive you get turbo brushes and Microtex (Allergen) filtration. If you don’t like Henry or Hetty, you could always check out James, Charles, or George.

  Henry [Numatic]
  Hetty [Numatec]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Editorial: Made In… Part 4

  Posted: March 8th, 2010, 11:56am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  In part one of this editorial, I discussed the international nature of large tool companies, and I laid out my basic opinion: that the “Made in…” stamp doesn’t provide enough information to determine a tool’s quality. In part two, I discussed the manufacturing process. In part three, I explained what all this means to you as a tool consumer. Read on for the conclusion: Just how the hell DO you select a tool?

  A few suggestions:

  1. Draw on recent experience.

  Do you, or has someone you know owned the tool in question within the last 12-24 months? If so, that experience can prove incredibly valuable in making your decision. There’s almost no better way to determine whether something’s a piece of crap than talking to someone you trust. Just be ready to nod knowingly (and ignore them) if they start spewing any of the rumormongering junk above. Instead, ask important questions like: Did it fail? If so, how? How have these tools failed for you in the past?

  2. Do your research.

  Sources online (like Toolmonger, for example, but others as well) offer lots of details about tools including detailed specifications and descriptions of innovations (if any). If you can’t find clear information about a given feature, you’re completely right to wonder if that feature makes any damn difference. Pay close attention to features centered around reliability.

  3. Don’t forget to balance price and quality.

  There’s nothing wrong with owning some cheap (and even crappy) tools. My Dad used to keep a drawer of “s#Itty screwdrivers” that were fair game for use as pry bars, paint stirs, and chisels. I keep a bag full of junk hand tools for use at the junk yard — chosen carefully after some dickhead made off with $400 of more expensive stuff while I was waist-deep under a hood looking for an alternator. And when my $0.80 wrench breaks, I’m not gonna bother returning it. I’m gonna pitch it and buy another.

  There’s also nothing wrong with spending for the best. In fact, if you’re a pro who depends on using the tool every day to make a living, you’re far better off spending to get both a quality tool and a simple replacement policy that’ll keep you on the job (and in the cash). Again, just make sure that that’s what you’re really getting.

  And finally, realize that there’s lots of room for discussion here. We can argue for years about what makes the best tools great — and the worst crap. But please don’t buy into the “Made in…” label. If you can’t tell quality from it and it doesn’t assuredly indicate you’re supporting the country financially, what does it mean?

  What do you think? Let us know in comments.

• 

  New PBS Woodworking Show

  Posted: March 8th, 2010, 8:59am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Fine WoodWorking blog reports that Boston’s WGBH will be producing a new PBS woodworking show featuring Thomas J. MacDonald (a.k.a. T. Chisel from his series of web videos). Maybe we’ll have someone to fill the void created when Norm retired from TV?

  Thomas, who has previously been in Bob Vila’s Home Again show on Modern Colonial (the video can be accessed here), intends to focus the new show on furniture making using both hand-tool and power-tool techniques, but also include newer technologies like CNC. Filming will mainly be done at his shop in Canton, MA. His 207 Woodworking site has several video podcasts for projects ranging from a step stool to a bombe secretary.

  

  The Federal Breakfront shown above is one example of his craftsmanship. More details are available on his personal website.

  207 Woodworking [Thomas J. MacDonald]

• 

  Wiha Stubby 6-In-1 Sets

  Posted: March 8th, 2010, 8:13am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  TM has covered stubby* drivers before (e.g., 2/10/07, 7/10/09, and 7/14/09), and their usefulness when just nothing else will fit. Now Wiha has five new stubby 6-In-1 bit sets. The bits are stored in the “Ergo Soft Grip” handle and the overall length, with a bit inserted in the ¼” SS holder, is just 2.5″. Bit sets include Torx model 38045 (T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, and T30), security Torx model 38047 (same sizes), ball hex model 38056 (1/8″, 9/64″, 5/32″, 3/16″, 7/32″, and 1/4″), slotted/Phillips/square model 38048 (4.5, 6.5, P#1, P#2, square #1, and square #2), and, pictured above, slotted/Phillips/pozi model 38043 (4.5, 6.5, P#1, P#2, pozi #1, and pozi #2).

  Depending on the type of bits, street pricing runs from a little under $15 to around $25.

  What’s your take on these versions? Do you prefer these changeable-bit types, or would you rather have fixed-bit drivers?

  Stubby 6-in-1 Multi-Bit Driver Sets [Manufacturer's Site]
  Wiha 38043 Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Wiha 38056 Via Amazon [What’s This?]

  *I must have some major brain-finger disconnect when it coming to typing “stubby” as I am constantly typing “stuffy” instead.

• 

  Steel Strapping Tools Overview

  Posted: March 8th, 2010, 7:02am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Your latest large shop purchase came in a crate secured with steel straps. Swearing, you go look for some snips that are hard enough to actually cut the straps. Sure they can be tough to remove, but that’s the point. Now you find yourself wondering how they put the straps on in the first place.

  Generally you need two tools to apply steel strapping: a tensioner and a sealer. You use the tensioner to take up the tension and hold the strapping while you use the sealer to crimp the seal in place. Of course if you ship a large volume of similar products, you could always buy a dedicated machine such as the large coil strapping machine pictured above.

  The tensioners usually work on a range of strapping thicknesses and widths, while the sealers are dedicated to a single width of strapping but still work with a range of thicknesses. Depending on the application, you can use a single or double-notch strapping sealer. Double notch sealers require more force so they usually have longer handles.

  If you want to get started strapping on a shoestring budget you can pick up a set of 3/4″ strapping tools at Amazon for around $200 shipped.

  Strapping Hand Tools [Quality Strapping Systems]
  Power Strapping Machines [Signode]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Editorial: Made In… Part 3

  Posted: March 5th, 2010, 3:20pm MST by Chuck Cage

  

  In part one of this editorial, I discussed the international nature of large tool companies, and I laid out my basic opinion: that the “Made in…” stamp doesn’t provide enough information to determine a tool’s quality. In part two, I discussed the manufacturing process. Read on as I endeavor to explain what all this means to you as a tool consumer.

  If you’re thoroughly confused by now, you’re not alone. This is why I contend that a “made in…” label simply doesn’t provide enough information to offer any indication of tool quality.

  And I’ll go ahead and address something else we hear a lot of on Toolmonger, too. You also can’t realistically guess quality based on any of the following, either:

  “I heard this company owns that company…”

  First of all, this is likely total hearsay. You wouldn’t believe the bogus goings-round we’ve heard along these lines — even from friends in the know. Yes, some tool companies own multiple brands. They often trade these brands around like playing cards in a game of go fish. But here’s the real skinny: Regardless of who owns whom, it’s common for tool manufactures to apply entirely different manufacturing processes to each tool line — regardless of what name they stamp on it or the color of the housing. Consider each tool individually, regardless of brand.

  “My dad had a whatsit from that company 30 years ago and it was great!”

  And guess what? The manufacturing process they used 30 years ago probably has as much to do with the current manufacturing process as I do with Olympic speed skater Apolo Ohno. The brand may even have changed hands (possibly more than once) during those intervening decades, for better or worse. Again, you’re not buying a 30-year-old product. You’re buying current offerings, so research accordingly.

  “It’s made in the same plant with [insert expensive tool here].”

  If it’s made by a wholly different process, does the roof it’s under make any difference at all? (Hint: No.) Of course, this gets even more complex when, say, the only difference between one brand and the other is a few skipped QC steps. In that case, you might get a tool that’s every bit as good as its more expensive equivalent. Or you might get the one with flawed casting that the high-buck QC would’ve rejected. You’re rolling the dice. Even worse, you’ll probably never really know what the difference is — they’ll just look identical, which will spur lots and lots of “they’re really just re-branded with a bigger price tag!” rumors.

  “So-and-so manufacturer makes those for [insert pricey/popular brand here].”

  This may be true. Manufacturers often make such deals, leading to all sorts of tailgate rumors. (My favorites, by the way, revolve around the companies that build hand tools for Craftsman. Danaher is the most commonly mentioned candidate, and Danaher produces tools under a number of brands including Allen, Armstrong, GearWrench, K-D, and Matco. So there’s no difference between a Matco, Armstrong, or Craftsman wrench, right? Wrong! Seriously, folks.)

  To be continued! Check back tomorrow for part four in this editorial where we make some recommendations as to how you can actually select tools.

• 

  137 Years Of Popular Science Online

  Posted: March 5th, 2010, 3:18pm MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Adafruit Industries blog reports that Popular Science has partnered with Google to put their entire 137-year archive online for free browsing. The example shown above is the March 1933 issue. Peeking inside you’ll find such neat things as ads for the $495 Plymouth Six and the Pontiac 77-horsepower straight eight, plus articles on “Gold Mining taught with Models” and, the cover story, “Seagull Boat Skims Water at Seventy Miles an Hour.”

  I could spend hours here reliving one of the fondest memories of my childhood: when my parents would visit one of their friends who had a huge collection of Popular Science magazines, I would tag along and happily wile away the hours perusing old issues until I fell asleep.

  Search the PopSci Archives [Popular Science]
  Popular Science March 1933 [Google Books]

• 

  Micro Kerf Blade Pinches Dimes, Not Pennies

  Posted: March 5th, 2010, 3:17pm MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  The 10″ Micro Kerf Blade is a carbide-tipped, 40-tooth blade meant for both rips and crosscuts. Total Saw Solutions claims the saw kerf is half that of a standard thin-kerf blade, as thin as the width of a dime. This is one finely machined blade — the plate is precision ground and tensioned so that runout is less that 1/2 the thickness of a human hair.

  One of the many advantages of the narrower kerf is that it produces less waste and sawdust while leaving a smooth finish. The blade also runs quieter and uses less energy. There are always downsides: you can’t make as deep of a cut as a regular 10″ blade because of the stiffening plate, the thinner blade is easier to bend, and even though it can be sharpened 10 to 15 times, it’s too fragile to take it to your local shop to be sharpened.

  

  Not only does Total Saw Solutions manufacture this blade in the USA, all materials including the steel for the blade and the packaging are purchased in the USA. The Micro Kerf Blade doesn’t come cheap; it’ll run you $175 at Rockler. Having the blade resharpened and “hammered flat” costs $20.

  Micro Kerf Blade [Total Saw Solutions]
  Micro Kerf Blade [Rockler]

• 

  The Penta Square

  Posted: March 5th, 2010, 3:15pm MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Besides just measuring 45° and 90° like a combination square, the Penta Square also measures 22.5° and 60°.  But, that’s only four measurements; penta is a prefix for five. Either they’re considering 180° a measurement, or else they’re call it that because of the irregular pentagon-shaped body.

  Kapro etches the 12″ stainless-steel blade in both Inch and Metric graduations. The bubble vial rotates within the body to check level and plumb in “all” positions. Absent is the thumb screw locking mechanism of a normal combination square. They’ve replaced it with their EasyLock mechanism, which they neglect to show in the literature.

  Depending on where you look, the Penta Square could cost you as little as $6.

  Penta Square [Kapro]
  Penta Square [Woodworker's Supply]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Editorial: Made In… Part 2

  Posted: March 4th, 2010, 11:18am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  In part one of this editorial, I discussed the international nature of large tool companies, and I laid out my basic opinion: that the “Made in…” stamp doesn’t provide enough information to determine a tool’s quality. Read on as I offer some justification for that statement and discuss the manufacturing process.

  I’ve seen plenty of great stuff and plenty of poorly-made crap wearing the “Made in the USA” tag. I’ve also seen some great stuff made elsewhere — yes, even in China — as well as a significant chunk of the aforementioned crap. And I’m willing to bet that most Toolmongers can readily lay their hands (physically, or at least metaphorically) on specific tools that fall into all four categories.

  But I think the evidence runs deeper than that. Over the past few years a number of tool manufacturers have offered us a look at how their tools are made and how their business processes work. While the details are almost always all off-the-record, the sum total of this experience allows us to see some industry-wide trends that are worth mentioning.

  First of all, there is indeed significant difference between “cheap” and “expensive” tools. While some dishonest brands will always try to fool us by purveying the former as the latter, often a tool’s price directly relates to the manufacturing or sales environment.

  Even manufacturing something as simple as a combination wrench involves many steps, from forging the basic shape to tempering, machining, and finishing. Each of these steps offers opportunities to improve the tool, and each step increases the cost of manufacturing.

  For example: Often cheap-ass wrenches don’t feature as many machined details as their truck-bought, pro-line cousins. Machining off sharp edges (and radiusing square corners) dramatically decreases the chances of the tool stress-fracturing — but it ain’t cheap to do.

  Don’t forget the nastiest of costs: labor. Adding quality control (QC) stations between existing manufacturing steps almost assuredly drives up the quality of the product, catching and stopping defective stock before finishing steps cover up tool (and project)-destroying flaws. But these, too add cost.

  Of course, lower labor cost is one of the prime motivators for manufacturing in Asia. But consider this: How does QC work when a brand designs a product in one country, manufactures it in another, and sells it in a third? (Note that this concern holds water even if we remove Asia from the equation!) Are the products QC’d on the line during manufacture? After they arrive in the country in which they’ll be sold? Is the QC performed by locals or by employees brought from the company’s home? Does the tool company station engineers on-site at the plant or at least rotate engineers through regularly to assure that manufacturing occurs according to specifications? Oh yeah — and how tight are those specifications?

  These, fellow Toolmongers, are questions you’ll never be able to answer. They’re some of the most closely-held secrets around. But they mean the world in terms of the quality of the tools you buy.

  Sales environment matters, too. As many of you have mentioned in your comments on various TM posts, almost everyone offers a “lifetime warranty” on hand tools. The real question you want to ask is “How do I get a replacement tool?” The easier it is to follow those instructions — and the more liberal the manufacturer is in replacing tools damaged by misuse or abuse as opposed to true failures — the more the tool will cost.

  (There are, of course, exceptions. Sometimes a company will invest in its brand by offering an incredible — and maybe even unrealistic in the long-term — warranty process. When you find one of those, by all means take advantage of it. You’ll suffer through the tough times, too, so cash in when you can!)

  To be continued! Check back tomorrow for part three in this editorial where we ask what the hell all this means to you.

• 

  Scotch Tough Duct Tapes

  Posted: March 4th, 2010, 10:48am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  Scotch® has six new Tough Duct Tapes, pictured above. The Extreme Hold version has a double-thick adhesive layer (sounds like Gorilla Tape), and a temperature range up to 200° F. The Heavy Duty All-Weather has UV resistance and a waterproof backing. The Outdoor Painter’s Clean Removal claims you can take it off cleanly for up to 14 days after application on “most opaque surfaces.” The indoor/outdoor No Residue can be removed without residue after as long as six months, and is designed for securing cords, hanging signage, bundling, and labeling. The Poly Hanging & Tarps has high tensile strength good for general repairs, hanging poly, and securing or repairing tarps. The Transparent is “ideal for discreet repairs,” or for bundling, reinforcing, and securing lightweight loads.

  Depending on tape type, prices range from around $6 to more than $10 at most of the big box stores.

  Have any Toolmongers tried these yet? How do they compare to alternatives like Gorilla Tape (details here; also see TM 12/30/06), or your basic big-box bargain bin — how’s that for alliteration? — variety?

  Scotch® Tough Duct Tape [Manufacturer's Site]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  A Torpedo Level With Nipples

  Posted: March 4th, 2010, 10:22am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Yes, you read it right — the Spot-Rite torpedo level has male pipe threads on both ends so you can screw it into a 1/2″, 3/4″ or 1″ pipe fitting to check level, plumb, and 45°.

  So, how do you fit three different thread sizes on two ends? Since it’s hard to see in the picture, we’re assuming either one end has a stepped thread, or the level comes with a thread adapter.

  Pricing for the Spot-Rite level starts at $22. Both the Summit and Allied sites say that this is a torpedo level and gunner nipple in one tool. Can anybody shed some light on what exactly a gunner nipple is?

  Spot-Rite Level [Summit Contractor Supply]
  Spot-Rite Level [Allied Rubber & Gasket]

• 

  Editorial: Made In… Part 1

  Posted: March 3rd, 2010, 1:43pm MST by Chuck Cage

  

  I see lots and lots of comments here on Toolmonger regarding where individual tools are made. And while I did grow up during a time where it was easy to tell “Made in America” from “cheap imports” in terms of hand and especially power tools, I have to tell you that after writing, researching, and using tools professionally in recent years, I’m not sure the line is so clear anymore. So what does “made in wherever” mean today, and what does it mean in terms of quality?

  Consider this: We’ve gone to all sorts of lengths here in America to help consumers understand where their cars are built. Take a look at the window sticker on a new vehicle, and you’ll find numbers indicating what percentage of the parts ship from what countries as well as where the car was assembled. But it’s still a bitch to figure out what’s domestic and what’s “imported.”

  Do we, for example, follow the money or the shipping receipts? And which money would we follow? the profits made from our purchases or the money paid to assembly workers? Or the money spent on parts? Or design? The result: Nissan sure sounds foreign, but I know lots of people in Mississippi who’d argue otherwise. And that all-American Ford? What if it’s built in Mexico?

  Now consider tools again. The design and manufacturing of tools is every bit as complex as autos, but we lack even the window sticker’s vague data to clue us in as to the true nature of a given product’s national (or more likely international) legacy.

  Though the United States represents a huge market for the sale of hand and power tools, it’s by no means the only one. Europe also represents a large market, as does Asia. And as the largest tool companies service the entire world, they’re not only manufacturing tools internationally — they’re also designing them, managing the production of them, and spending the cash made from the sale of them internationally as well.

  It’s by no means uncommon for large tool companies to conceive a tool a facility in one country, design it in another, manufacture it in third, test it in a fourth, and sell it all over the world. While a tool like this might carry a “Made in China” stamp (or “Made in the USA” if it happened to be assembled in the US), what does that really mean?

  Here’s my opinion: Where a tool is manufactured — when viewed on its own without other data — no longer offers a good indicator as to the tool’s quality nor its contribution to a given nation’s economy.

  To be continued! Check back tomorrow for part two in this editorial where we delve deeper into the manufacturing process.

• 

  Combo Square With A Magnetic Lock

  Posted: March 3rd, 2010, 1:42pm MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Can you spot something missing on Kapro’s Combination Square? Actually two things are missing.  Notice there’s no channel running the length of the rule; it’s smooth and flat. You don’t need a channel because this square doesn’t have the usual thumb screw locking mechanism. Instead six rare-earth magnets hold the body where you position it.

  Kapro etches the 12″ stainless steel rule with inch and metric scales in increments of 1/16″ and 1 mm, and because of the magnetic lock you don’t have slide the body off the end of the rule to switch scales. They make the body from heavy-duty cast zinc, mill it on five sides, and incorporate the standard spirit level. You don’t even have to search for a marking device since they include their Easy Grip stainless steel scribe which is always at the ready, stuck to the magnets in the body.

  

  You can find the square for as little as $11 before shipping, plus Kapro throws in a belt holster for the price of purchase.

  Combination Square [Kapro]
  Combination Square [Rockler]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Extreme Laziness: Grill Edition!

  Posted: March 3rd, 2010, 9:26am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  There are a lot of silly things sold today, but the motorized grill brush tops the list. It makes you wonder if the person who signed the check to manufacture them has ever grilled. Is it really that hard to move your arm back and forth, and do you really want to hunt around for batteries when the brush dies rather than clean your grill?

  To put this into perspective, we are talking about a Brookstone product. Between them and The Sharper Image, billions of dollars of useless crap has been sold to gadget-loving persons everywhere.  Every once in a while they’re ahead of the curve and actually sell something that catches on, but 9 times out of 10 it’s crap.

  Powered by four C cell batteries, the grill brush operates like an electric toothbrush for your grill. You push a button and supposedly the rotary brushes quickly strip away cooked-on food — one wonders if the brush can produce enough torque to remove anything. So when the rotating brushes won’t work you can use the built-in scraper. You can remove the brush for cleaning or replacement when it’s worn.

  The upside is that if you buy the motorized grill brush you’re only losing $20, plus shipping of course.  Replacement brushes are $5, so if you must buy this grill brush you might want to pick up a few because who knows how long this product will be around.

  For other funny examples of extreme laziness, check out the collection at Holytaco.

  Motorized Grill Brush [Brookstone]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Free Woodworking E-Books

  Posted: March 3rd, 2010, 8:09am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Make blog reports that Evenfall Studios’ Woodworks Library has a growing collection of over 175 free books available in HTML and PDF formats. These scanned books (files can be very large) are United States public domain, and anyone in the U.S. can read and distribute them. Many are older books from the late 1800s and early 1900s, but there are also more recent books like the USDA Wood Handbook pictured above. The books cover a gamut of topics: furniture, finishing, upholstery, pattern making, hand tools, machine tools, welding, metal work, carving, turning, and more. If you can think of it, there’s probably a book in this library about it.

  You can now pick up older books, like the one shown below, for less than its original cost of 10¢!

  

  This is a great resource for both the wood worker and the history buff.

  The Evenfall Studios Woodworks Library [Manufacturer's Site]

• 

  Covered In Ice? Build Your Own Hockey Rink!

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 11:17am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  Sure, tons of ice and snow falling on your town can mean lost services and difficult travel. But there’s lemonade in those lemons — especially if you’re a hockey fan. More than a few enterprising people have turned this winter’s abundance into home-made hockey rinks!

  The kid-sized rink pictured above, for example, was built by this man out of basic lumber, decking screws, some vapor barrier, and a garden hose. Admittedly, he purchased a RinkRake — an ice-grooming tool that (like a Zamboni on big rinks) helps smooth out the ice. But other than that, it’s pretty much a local big-box special.

  And he’s not alone. A recent article in the Rochester Democrat and Chronicle notes that spending $500 or so to build even a 55′ x 38′ backyard rink compares favorably to the $250 or more it costs to rent a local rink for an hour. Factor in another $300 for lessons, and the idea of a DIY rink and teaching your own kids sounds pretty thrifty.

  Though this isn’t the first year I’ve seen this picture floating around the wasting-time-at-work pic sites, I always assumed it was Photoshop genius. Now I’m not so sure.

  So where do you start? If you’re looking to take on the task entirely DIY, you’ll definitely want to check out the plans and photos link below where a veteran builder shows step-by-step pictures of the whole process. And if you’ve got a little extra cash, you might swing by Rink Rake’s site, which offers not just the grooming tool mentioned above, but also pretty much everything you need to build a high-quality rink of your own.

  Just don’t forget to send Toolmonger some pics when you’re done!

  DIY Backyard Ice Rink [myfamilylovesit.com]
  DIY Backyard Ice Rink Plans/Photos [myfamilylovesit.com]
  Young Players Sharpen Their Skills on Backyard Rinks [democratandchronicle.com]

• 

  The Right Way To Cram Things Under Your Bed

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 10:43am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  I’ll admit that I’m still guilty of cramming stuff under my bed — even as I’m approaching 40. But Toolmonger blitzcat has a better solution: a bed frame that incorporates sliding drawers. Though he bought the plans from online seller knottyplans.com, I’d bet most of you could gin up your own similar project from the pictures he’s posted to the Flickr pool.

  For more photos, check out the full set he posted, including my favorite: pics of the plywood riding home strapped to the top of a small SUV. As if you needed it, here’s more proof that you don’t need to own a truck and a pile of tools to build simple projects to make your life simpler.

  Hopefully he’ll stop by and give us some more details about the project in comments!

  Storage Bed [TM's Flickr Pool]
  Mate’s Bed Project [Flickr]

• 

  Cable Tie Goes Loop De Loop

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 10:14am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  Cable ties are nothing new, but sometimes you don’t want to put all your wires in one bundle, so Panduit’s double loop cable ties allow you to use a single cable tie to secure two different bundles. The double slotted head lets the tail go through like a normal cable tie, but the second slot allows you to loop the tail back around to form a second loop.

  The linked cable ties are Panduit’s weather-resistant black nylon variety. The 11.8″ long ties can form two 3″ loops. Measuring .190″ wide by .052″ thick, these ties have a 50 lb minimum loop tensile strength and are UL recognized.

  A hundred-pack of these weather-resistant double loop cable ties will run you about $28 plus shipping.  You can even find triple loop cable ties if you poke around Panduit’s website.

  Double Loop Cable Ties [Panduit]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Ace To Sell Craftsman Tools

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 9:32am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  According to the folks at Craftsman, approximately 100 Ace stores will begin selling Craftsman tools this May. That includes portable power tools, compressors, wet/dry vacs, and storage products — but most importantly, it includes hand tools. Later this summer Ace plans to extend the extend the offer to carry Craftsman products to all of its 4,500 stores.

  Like you, we wonder how this’ll translate to the specific Ace stores near us. Unlike Sears, Ace stores are independently owned and operated, so they tend to vary a bit from store-to-store in terms of what they carry and what sort of experience you’ll receive. And this isn’t, in our opinion, a bad thing. While it certainly leaves room for error, it also leaves room for customizing the stores to local needs in a way the big-boxes simply can’t.

  But the biggest question will be how they’ll handle warranty returns. Will they accept and rebuild/replace tools on the spot like Sears does now? If so, this’ll mean a lot of new business for them. If not, it could mean a dilution of the Craftsman brand. Either way, it could mean access to the Craftsman brand for those of you without a local Sears.

  What do you think? Let us know in comments.

• 

  It’s Just Cool: 180-MPH Rolling-Road Wind Tunnel

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 9:10am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Windshear 180-MPH Rolling-Road Wind Tunnel in North Carolina can handle full-sized vehicles and test them with wind speeds up to 180 mph in an environment temperature controlled to ± 1°F. The vehicles sit on a 10.5′ wide × 29.5′ long rolling “road” that is a one-millimeter thick continuous stainless steel belt. This “road” also sits on a turn table with a yaw range of ± 8°, and its belt can accelerate from 0 to 180 mph in less than 60 seconds.

  

  As you can see from the above drawing, this is not a small facility. It occupies around 160,000 square feet, and needed approximately 20,000 tons of steel and 2,000 cubic yards of concrete to build.

  

  The 22-foot diameter 5,100 HP main fan, shown above, recirculates 2.85 million cubic feet of air per second at the tunnel’s top speed, and uses 7MW of power in doing so. It probably also makes one helluva leaf blower…

  Wind Shear, Inc. [Manufacturer's Site]

• 

  Don’t Succumb To The Winter Gardening Blues

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 8:16am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  So it’s too cold to plant. That doesn’t mean you have to spend the whole winter sitting around on your butt. Sue Bucher of the Adams County Master Gardener co-op in Pennsylvania offers some great suggestions to keep you busy during those winter months. Our favorite (and her #1 recommendation): clean and repair your garden tools.

  That’s right: There’s nothing worse than going to crank the rototiller or lawn mower in the spring, only to discover it full of sludge and in need of maintenance. Why not take care of it now and enjoy the benefits when it’s warm?

  But she’s got lots of other suggestions, including ones you can take on from inside where it’s warm, like building an indoor grow lab to start plants from seeds or to experiment with various lighting — their extension office offers plans — or planting alfalfa seeds for salad sprouts.

  For lots more suggestions — and a wealth of interesting gardening information — check out the full article below.

  (Thanks, psd, for the awesome CC-licensed photo.)

  A Gardener’s Tips for Curing The Winter Blues [Master Gardeners]

• 

  Lug Nut Cover Pliers

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 7:38am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  You put fancy rims on your ride; it’s only sensible to finish off the look with some sharp-looking lug nut covers. Besides looking good, the covers may actually provide some protection to the lug threads.  The only problem is whether you can figure out how to install them without marking them up.

  Wheel Master designed their Universal Lug Nut Cover Pliers to quickly and easily remove and replace all sized lug nut covers without damaging them. The heavy-gauge steel pliers have rubber-coated handles for a good grip and a rubber-coated head to protect the lug nut covers. And the 9″ pliers are long enough to reach into deep dish wheels.

  Pricing for the pliers starts around $10.

  Lug Nut Cover Pliers [Wheel Masters]
  Street Pricing [Google Products]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Milwaukee Updates The Classic Sawzall

  Posted: March 2nd, 2010, 7:06am MST by Chuck Cage

  

  Every so often, a manufacturer releases a product that’s so on-point that their brand name becomes synonymous with the tool itself. Here in the South, lots of people call any soda a Coke. But all around the U.S., people call their reciprocating saw a Sawzall.

  The Sawzall name belongs to Milwaukee, however, and they recently announced their latest update to the classic multi-purpose saw in the form of two new versions: one with a 3/4″ stroke for cutting in tight spaces and another with a 1-1/8″ stroke for heavy demolition.

  Both models will feature a 12-amp motor, clutch to protect gears and motor life (when the blade sticks on something nasty), and Milwaukee’s Quik-Lok tool-free blade clamp. And for those of you tired of numb hands and elbows, the new Sawzalls include a counter-weighted mechanism to reduce vibration — important when it’s pushing out 3,000 strokes per minute.

  Street pricing starts around $120 for both the short-stroke model (the 6509-31) and the long-stroke (the 6519-31), and both weigh in right at 7.3 pounds. These are, of course, corded models.

  Street Pricing [Google Products]

• 

  GunSlinger Stapler Belt Holder

  Posted: March 1st, 2010, 10:07am MST by Benjamen Johnson

  

  You can buy tool belt accessories to carry tape measures, hammers, and drills, but where do you stow your staple gun? If you had Arrow’s Gunslinger, you could hang it from your belt, too. It works with most of Arrow’s and many other brands of staple guns.

  Made in the USA from high-impact plastic, the Gunslinger threads onto your belt. Its design makes it easy to “quick draw” your stapler, yet prevents the stapler from slipping off accidentally. CableOrganizer.com ships the Gunslinger to your door — if you live in the lower 48 — for $7, or you could go with Amazon and pay $5 but get gouged another $8 for shipping.

  GunSlinger [CableOrganizer.com]
  Via Amazon [What’s This?]

• 

  Hot Or Not? Michelin Smart Jumper Cables

  Posted: March 1st, 2010, 9:45am MST by Gordon DeWitte

  

  The Michelin Smart Jumper Cables™ seem to be a great step up from ordinary jumper cables. These 12′ long cables are 8-gauge copper-clad aluminum wires with a control box that automatically adjusts the polarity when the clamps are connected, and prevents sparking or shorting. Basic jumper-cable connection rules still apply: from one side of the control box, connect one clamp to the boosting vehicle’s positive battery terminal and the other to its negative terminal. Then, from the other side of the control box, connect one clamp to the disabled vehicle’s positive battery terminal, and the other to exposed metal on the engine block or vehicle frame. If the control box’s green indicator lights are on, you’re ready to try a jump start. The control box also has built-in surge protection for the vehicles’ computers and electronics. A set of these smart jumper cables costs $34.99.

  These look like a good idea to me – no more of that “put the red clamp on the positive terminal of the good battery, and then…,” especially on a dark, cold, rainy night with crummy cell-phone reception. What do you think?

  Michelin 5100 Smart Jumper Cables Via Amazon [What’s This?]
  Michelin Smart Jumper Cables™ [Manufacturer's Site]

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